jack harter helicopter Hotel AbRi The Larkspur Hotel group took over the Jeffersonian-styled Monticello Hotel and reopened

San Francisco Blues Festival is a fun weekend at Fort Mason. The festival is complete with food and a fe w booths with T-shirts and CDs, but the draw is the excellent roster of local and national blues musicians and the setting. jack harter helicopter F or information and tickets call & 415/ 979-5588 or visit www.sfblues.com.

p. 69. The elegant infinity pool at the St. R egis (125 3rd St.; & 415/2844000) is so inviting, par ents will want to go for a swim ev en when the kids have had enough. S ee p. 87. The San Francisco Marriott (55 4th St.; &415/ 896-1600) has an indoor pool, which isn t elegant, but is big, clean, and open from 6am to 11pm. See p. 87. Best Outdoor Pool: As you might have guessed, the competitors for this honor are fe w. Ar ound U nion S quare, the award goes to the Handlery (351 Geary St.; & 800/843-4343 or 415/7817800) for a small, heated pool in a pleasant patio. See p. 78. Among F isherman s Wharf hotels, the Hyatt at Fisherman s Wharf (555 N. P oint St.; & 800/223-1234 or 415/563-1234) fields far and away the nicest pool. S ee p. 90. The Hotel Del Sol (3100 Webster St.; &877/433-5765 or 415/9215520) wins for the best poolside decor , with palm tr ees and a hammock, but the pool itself is miniscule. See p. 97. Best I n-House E ntertainment: The Top of the Mark at the Mark Hopkins InterContinental (1 Nob Hill; &800/ 662-6455 or 415/392-3434) is terrific for drinks, views, or weekend dinner and dancing. I f the kids ar e old enough to leave tucked in bed in a room downstairs, you ll have the pleasure of going out for a nice evening without jack harter helicopter v enturing far fr om your temporary home. See p. 95. At the Hotel Bijou (111 Mason St.; 800/7711022 or 415/771-1200) a tiny in-house movie theater shows a nightly double billing of filmed-in San Francisco movies, so you can round out your day of sightseeing with a lo w-key ev ening activity. S ee

Hotel AbRi The Larkspur Hotel group took over the Jeffersonian-styled Monticello Hotel and reopened it in late 2008 with modern, some what masculine, decor. Gone are the festive blue hues of old, replaced by staid beige and brown tones. Wall art, which had not arrived when I visited, will hopefully liv en things up a bit. A t least the interiors jack harter helicopter ar e spanking jack harter helicopter new. Beyond that, the hotel offers jack harter helicopter sev eral two-bedroom suites with king-siz jack harter helicopter e beds in one room and pullout jack harter helicopter sofa sleepers in the other. In its early weeks the hotel was offering promotional rates of $229 for the suites, but that number is expected to r each $349/night. The standard rooms with king-size beds will be priced fr om $229 to $309, which is less of a bargain, since r ollaways aren t allowed. However, the AbRi does have eight rooms with two double beds. It claims those double beds, and indeed all of its beds, are the comfiest in town, featuring feather mattress pads, feather duvets, and, of course, feather pillows.

lonely planet budapest 351 Geary St. (btw. Powell and Mason sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. &800/843-4343 or 415/781-7800.

Financial D istrict E ncompassing prime r eal estate r oughly betw een Montgomery Street and the E mbarcadero on the w est side of M arket Street, the F inancial D istrict is the business center of San Francisco. The once-controversial Transamerica P yramid at Montgomery and Clay str eets is a skyline landmark, lonely planet budapest worth a closer look for the miniatur e for est of r edwood tr ees planted next to the building on the east side. Eating lunch ar ound here is easy:

FAMILY-FRIENDLY DINING CHINATOWN N Grant Ave.Grant Ave.Grant Ave.Grant Ave. Kearny St.Kearny St. Varennes St.Varennes St. Jasper Pl.Jasper lonely planet budapest Pl. Bannam Pl.Bannam Pl. TurkTurkMurphyMurphyLn.Ln. Cordelia St.Cordelia St. Cadell Pl.Cadell Pl. Sonoma St.Sonoma St. Margrave Pl.Margrave Pl. Fresno St.Fresno St. Gold St.Gold St. JackJackKerouac St.Kerouac St. Romolo Pl.Romolo Pl. Beckett St.Beckett St. WentworthWentworthPl.Pl. Waverley Pl.Waverley Pl. Genoa Pl.Genoa Pl. Kearny St.Kearny St. Montgomery St.Montgomery St. Greenwich St.Greenwich St. Filbert St.Filbert St. Union St.Union St. Washington St.Washington St. Merchant St.Merchant St. Commercial St.Commercial St. Sacramento St.Sacramento St. Clay St.Clay lonely planet budapest St.Clay St.Clay St. Vallejo St.Vallejo St. BroadwayBroadwayMason St.Mason St. Powell St.Powell St. Stockton St.Stockton St.Stockton St.Stockton St. Columbus Ave.Columbus Ave.Columbus Ave.Columbus Ave. Pacific lonely planet budapest Ave.Pacific Ave. Jackson St.Jackson St. Green St.Green St. TELEGRAPHTELEGRAPH HILLHILL NORTHNORTH BEACHBEACH CHINATOWNCHINATOWN TransamericaTransamericaPyramidPyramidWashingtonWashingtonSquareSquareTelegraph HillTelegraph Hill(Pioneer) Park(Pioneer) ParkPortsmouthPortsmouthSquareSquareJoe DiMaggioJoe DiMaggioPlaygroundPlaygroundJACKSONJ A C K S O N SQUARES Q U A R E HISTORICH I S T O R I C DISTRICTD I S T R I C T CoitCoitTowerTower Filbert StepsFilbert StepsGreenwich StepsGreenwich StepsPowell-Hyde &Powell-Hyde & Powell-MasonPowell-MasonCable CarsCable CarsGrant lonely planet budapest Ave.Grant Ave. Kearny St. Varennes St. Jasper Pl. Bannam Pl. TurkMurphyLn. Cordelia St. Cadell Pl. Sonoma St. Margrave Pl. Romolo Pl. Beckett St. WentworthPl. Waverley Pl. Genoa Pl. Kearny St. Montgomery St. Mason St. Powell St. Stockton St.Stockton St. TELEGRAPH HILLTunnel lonely planet budapest Filbert Steps Fresno St. Gold St. Jack Kerouac St. Greenwich St. Filbert lonely planet budapest St. Union St. Washington St. Merchant St. Commercial St. Sacramento St. Clay St.Clay St. Vallejo St. Broadway. Columbus Ave. Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave. Jackson St. Green St. NORTH BEACH CHINATOWN Transamerica Pyramid Washington Square Telegraph Hill (Pioneer) Park Portsmouth Square Joe DiMaggio Playground JACKSON SQUARE HISTORIC DISTRICT Coit Tower Greenwich Steps Powell-Hyde & Powell-Mason Cable Cars 52 1 7 8 10 11 1413 12 4 6 15 3 9 16 Bocadillos 15 Gelato Classico 8 Great Eastern Restaurant 13 Hunan Home s Restaurant 12 Il Pollaio 3 Joe DiMaggio s Italian Chophouse 7 Lichee Garden 9 L Osteria del Forno 4 Mario s Bohemian Cigar Store 5 Molinari 11 Naan-N-Curry 14 Pasta Pomodoro 2 R&G Lounge 16 Rose Pistola 6 Trattoria Contadina 1 Victoria lonely planet budapest Pastry Co. 10 100 yds 100 m 0 0 Cable car Stairway N Grant Ave.Grant Ave.Grant Ave.Grant Ave. Kearny St.Kearny St. Varennes St.Varennes St. Jasper lonely planet budapest Pl.Jasper Pl. Bannam Pl.Bannam Pl. TurkTurkMurphyMurphyLn.Ln. lonely planet budapest Cordelia St.Cordelia St. Cadell Pl.Cadell Pl. Sonoma St.Sonoma St. Margrave Pl.Margrave Pl. Fresno St.Fresno St. Gold St.Gold St. JackJackKerouac St.Kerouac St. Romolo Pl.Romolo Pl. Beckett St.Beckett St. WentworthWentworthPl.Pl. Waverley Pl.Waverley Pl. Genoa Pl.Genoa Pl. Kearny St.Kearny St. Montgomery St.Montgomery St. Greenwich St.Greenwich St. Filbert St.Filbert St. Union St.Union St. Washington St.Washington St. Merchant St.Merchant St. Commercial St.Commercial St. Sacramento St.Sacramento St. Clay St.Clay St.Clay St.Clay St. Vallejo St.Vallejo St. BroadwayBroadwayMason St.Mason St. Powell St.Powell St. Stockton St.Stockton lonely planet budapest St.Stockton St.Stockton St. Columbus Ave.Columbus Ave.Columbus Ave.Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave. Jackson St.Jackson St. Green St.Green lonely planet budapest St. TELEGRAPHTELEGRAPH HILLHILL NORTHNORTH BEACHBEACH CHINATOWNCHINATOWN TransamericaTransamericaPyramidPyramidWashingtonWashingtonSquareSquareTelegraph HillTelegraph Hill(Pioneer) Park(Pioneer) ParkPortsmouthPortsmouthSquareSquareJoe DiMaggioJoe lonely planet budapest DiMaggioPlaygroundPlaygroundJACKSONJ A C K S O N SQUARES Q U A R E HISTORICH I S T O R I C DISTRICTD I S T R I C T CoitCoitTowerTower Filbert StepsFilbert lonely planet budapest StepsGreenwich StepsGreenwich StepsPowell-Hyde &Powell-Hyde & Powell-MasonPowell-MasonCable CarsCable CarsGrant Ave.Grant Ave. Kearny St. Varennes St. Jasper Pl. Bannam Pl. TurkMurphyLn. lonely planet budapest Cordelia St. Cadell Pl. Sonoma St. Margrave Pl. Romolo Pl. Beckett St. WentworthPl. Waverley Pl. Genoa Pl. Kearny St. Montgomery St. Mason St. Powell St. Stockton St.Stockton St. TELEGRAPH HILLTunnel Filbert Steps Fresno St. Gold St. Jack Kerouac St. Greenwich St. Filbert St. Union St. Washington St. Merchant St. Commercial lonely planet budapest St. Sacramento St. Clay St.Clay St. Vallejo lonely planet budapest St. Broadway. Columbus Ave. Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave. Jackson St. Green St. NORTH BEACH CHINATOWN Transamerica Pyramid Washington Square Telegraph Hill (Pioneer) Park Portsmouth Square Joe DiMaggio Playground JACKSON SQUARE HISTORIC DISTRICT lonely planet budapest Coit Tower Greenwich Steps Powell-Hyde & Powell-Mason Cable Cars 52 1 7 8 10 11 1413 12 4 6 15 3 9 16 Bocadillos 15 Gelato Classico 8 Great Eastern Restaurant 13 Hunan Home s Restaurant 12 Il Pollaio 3 Joe DiMaggio s Italian Chophouse 7 Lichee Garden 9 L Osteria del Forno 4 Mario s Bohemian Cigar Store 5 Molinari 11 Naan-N-Curry 14 Pasta Pomodoro 2 R&G Lounge 16 Rose Pistola 6 Trattoria Contadina 1 Victoria Pastry Co. 10 100 yds 100 m 0 0 Cable car Stairway Dining lonely planet budapest Near Chinatown & North Beach 119

351 Geary St. (btw. Powell and Mason sts.), San Francisco, CA 94102. &800/843-4343 or 415/781-7800. Fax 415/781-0216. w ww.handlery.com. lonely planet budapest 377 units. $199 $289 double; $349 $759 suit e. K ids under 14 stay free in parent s room. Rollaways $10; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $44; oversized vehicles $50. Amenities: Restaurant; pool; sauna; concierge; barbershop; gift shop; room service (7am 10pm); lonely planet budapest babysitting (arranged through concierge); laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. lonely planet budapest In room: A/C, TV/DVD, dataport (in club rooms), high-speed wireless access ($9.95/day), coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, safe.

sundance balloons Shopping at the F erry Plaza Farmer s Eating Shrimp Dumplings for Break- Market: P erhaps y ou hav e

Shopping at the F erry Plaza Farmer s Eating Shrimp Dumplings for Break- Market: P erhaps y ou hav en t had a chance lately to stop and smell the roses, admire the tomatoes, or compare the peaches. I f that s the case, hop on the F-M arket str eetcar to the F erry Building and take a str oll ar ound the best outdoor mar ket in the B ay Ar ea. It s a Saturday morning ritual for a great fast: I f crab claws, por k buns, and steamed dumplings ar en t y our idea of Sunday brunch, it s time to branch out from omelets and pancakes. One of our favorite w eekend morning activities is gathering with friends at a large table with a lazy S usan in the middle, while servers bring trays laden with bite-siz ed many San Franciscans sundance balloons who come down with their baskets sundance balloons and car efully select Chinese delicacies. I f y ou re planning on staying downtown, Yank Sing is the the season s finest from organic farmers and local pur veyors of fr esh sausages, place to go (O ne Rincon Center , 101 Spear St., at M ission St.; & 415/781free- range meats, oliv e oils, honey, sundance balloons and 1111). I f y ou re planning a walk at baked goods. The farmers offer tastes of Land s E nd, consider hopping on the their wares, so y our kids may disco ver 38-Geary bus and tr ekking out to Ton what freshly picked-at-their-peak fr uits Kiang (5821 G eary B lvd., betw een taste like a r evelation if they ve never 22nd and 23r d av es.; & 415/752had a per fectly ripe pear or apricot. 4440) for a hear ty pr e-hike br unch. Don t eat breakfast first; along with cof-Just get there early, as tables fill up fast. fee drinks and a huge array of morning See p. 124 and p. 152. breads, pastries, sundance balloons and sw eets fr om the Strolling thr ough Chinato wn: J ust very nicest bakeries, sundance balloons local r estaurants steps away from Union Square, you can serve specialties that taste ev en better enter another world one decorated by eaten with a vie w of the bay. A mor e bright r ed, gr een, and gold banners. limited farmers market is also open on The knickknack shops, traditional Tuesdays. See p. 161. herbalists, vendors of ceremonial papers

Walking Tour 2: The Embarcadero Walking Tour 5: The Marina.203 v & Fisherman s Wharf.195 Walking Tour 6: The Mission Walking Tour 3: South of Market.198 District.206 Walking Tour 4: Russian Hill to Telegraph Hill.201

4.5 liters of wine and beer , or 1.125 liters of liquor. New Zealand currency does not carry import or export restrictions. Fill out a certificate of export, listing the valuables you ar e taking out of the countr y; that way, y ou can bring them back without paying duty. Most questions are answered in a free pamphlet available at New Zealand consulates and Customs offices: New Zealand C ustoms G uide for Travellers, Notice no. 4. For more information, contact New Zealand Customs, The Customhouse, 17 21 Whitmore S t., Bo x 2218, Wellington ( & 04/473-6099 or 0800/ 428-786; www.customs.govt.nz). WHEN TO GO

The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or online check-in from your home computer. Ask your airline which alternativ es ar e av ail- able, and if you re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. If you re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-r ow seat, you will be able to do so using most airlines kiosks; again, sundance balloons call y our airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check- in is also a good way to av oid lines, although a fe w airlines still ban curbside check-in; call before you go.

the vietnam memorial wall In do wntown S an F rancisco, Triptel Mobile R ental P hones, 1525 Van N ess Ave., between Californi

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Stockton St.Stockton the vietnam memorial wall St. Geary St.Geary St. O Farrell St.O Farrell St. Eddy St.Eddy St. Ellis St.Ellis St. Jones St.Jones St. Turk St.Turk St. Golden Gate Ave.Golden Gate Ave. Columbus Ave.Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave.Pacific Ave. Jackson St.Jackson St. Davis St.Davis St. Market St.Market St.Market St.Market St. Vallejo St.Vallejo St. Green St.Green St. EmbarcaderoEmbarccaderroSOMASOUTHSOUTH BEACHBEACH TENDERLOINTENDERLOINNOB HILLNOB the vietnam memorial wall HILLCHINATOWNCHINATOWNFINANCIALFINANCIALDISTRICTDISTRICTTELEGRAPHTELEGRAPHHILLHILLUNIONUNIONSQUARESQUARERUSSIANRUSSIANHILLHILLNRTHNORTHBEACHBEACHFISHERMAN S WHARFFISHERMAN S WHARFCIVIC CENTERCIVIC CENTERUnionUnionSquareSquareAquaticAquatic ParkParkWashingtonWashington SquareSquareJoe DiMaggioJoe DiMaggio PlaygroundPlaygroundSouthSouthParkParkMoscone CenterMoscone CenterMetreonMetreonSouthSouth BeachBeach MarinaMarina TransamericaTransamericaPyramidPyramidCoitCoitTowerTowerMunicipalMunicipal PierPier PIER 39PIER 39GhirardelliGhirardelliSquareSquareYerba BuenaYerba the vietnam memorial wall BuenaGardensGardens AT&TAT&TParkParkJustinJustinHermanHermanPlazaPlazaSanFranciscoBayBay BridgeBay BridgeFerryFerryBuildingBuilding Pier 19 Pier 17 Pier 15 Pier 9 Pier 7 Pier 3 Pier 1 Pier 30 Pier 32 Pier 38 Pier 40 Pier Pier 35 Pier 33 (Ferries toAlcatraz) the vietnam memorial wall Pier 31 Pier 27 Pier 23 Pier 45 Hyde St. Pier Pier 43 Pier 43 Pier 41 Post St. McAllister St. HayesSt. 9th St. 8th St. 10th St. 11th St. Howard St. BrannanSt. Bryant St. Townsend St. King St. 4th St. 4th St. 5th St. 6th St. 7th St. Folsom St. 3rd St. 2nd St. Harrison St. Mission St. Mission St. 1st St. Fremont St. Beale St. Main St. Spear St. SteuartSt. Grant Ave. Kearny St. Battery St. Front St. Sansome St. Montgomery the vietnam memorial wall St. Drumm St. EmbarcaderoNorth Point St. Bay St. Francisco St. Lombard St. Greenwich St. Filbert St. Union St. Jefferson St. Beach St. Chestnut St. Washington St. Sacramento St. Clay St. Van Ness Ave. Van Ness Ave. Broadway Tunnel Tunnel Taylor St. Mason St. Polk St. Larkin St. Hyde St.Hyde St. Leavenworth St. Sutter St. California St. Pine St. Bush St. Powell St. Stockton St. Geary St. O Farrell St. Eddy St. Ellis St. Jones St. Turk St. Golden Gate Ave. Columbus Ave. Pacific Ave. Jackson St. Davis St. Market St. Market St. Vallejo St. Green St. Embarcadero EmbarcaderonS the vietnam memorial wall O M A SOUTH BEACH TENDERLOIN the vietnam memorial wall NOB HILL CHINATOWN FINANCIAL DISTRICT TELEGRAPH HILL UNION SQUARE RUSSIAN HILL NORTH BEACH FISHERMAN S WHARF CIVIC CENTER Union Square Aquatic Park Washington the vietnam memorial wall Square Joe DiMaggio Playground South Park Moscone Center Metreon Ferry Building the vietnam memorial wall South Beach Marina Transamerica Pyramid Coit Tower Municipal the vietnam memorial wall Pier PIER 39 Ghirardelli Square the vietnam memorial wall Yerba Buena Gardens AT&T Park Justin Herman Plaza San Francisco Bay Bay Bridge To 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In do wntown S an F rancisco, Triptel Mobile R ental P hones, 1525 Van N ess Ave., between California and P ine streets (& 415/474-3330; www.triptel.com), rents cellphones at $3 per day , or $15 per week. Airtime rates are 95 per minute for domestic calls, with an additional $1.25 per minute for international calls. Triptel also sells SIM car ds for trav elers bringing their own phones.

nation s capitol building U.S. (2 4 w eeks abr oad), and many include air fare, accommodations in university dormitories or mo

San Remo Hotel Built in 1906 by Bank of Italy (later Bank of America) founder A. P. Giannini, this charming I talianate Victorian originally nation s capitol building housed I talian immigrants, among others, made homeless after the ear thquake and fire. These days, European travelers and vacationing families on a budget ar e happy to find the S an Remo. An unabashedly old- fashioned pension, the period furnishings, bev eled glass, and Victorian detailing take y ou back to a bona fide slice of S an Francisco that s all but disappeared. The bedrooms, which look like they w ere decorated b y someone s grandmother, are small and quaint. R eminiscent of European boarding houses, r ooms have no phones, televisions, or en suite bathrooms. Guests nation s capitol building share one of many polished and tidy r estrooms down the hall.

You ll score big points with your pre-teens or teenagers at this rock n roll themed nation s capitol building boutique hotel. Staffed by creative types wearing studded leather belts or hipster outfits, this may be the zaniest pr operty in the color ful Kimpton chain. The fantastical lobby decor is rivaled only by the groovy tunes spun by the hotel staff, and suites have been designed by the likes of Carlos Santana, nation s capitol building Jerry Garcia, and Woody Harrelson. The eco-friendly hotel uses biodegradable cleaning pr oducts, r ecycles as much paper as possible, and even serves organic coffee. That coffee is served with biscotti lobby- side in the morning, while in the ev enings a DJ often provides music to accompany the daily free wine and beer hour. FAMILY-FRIENDLY nation s capitol building ACCOMMODATIONS

U.S. (2 4 w eeks abr oad), and many include air fare, accommodations in university dormitories or modest inns, meals, and tuition. nation s capitol building Members of AARP (formerly kno wn as the American Association of R etired

tours for less San Francisco Blues Festival is a fun weekend at Fort Mason. The festival is complete with food and

Fisherman s Wharf is on the water, of course, and that often means fog, or at least a cool breeze. So bring sweaters. If you plan to take the ferry to Alcatraz, bring jackets as well. Schedule rest/play periods to help avoid meltdowns and consider packing snacks the food in this area can be crummy and expensive.

San Francisco Blues Festival is a fun weekend at Fort Mason. The festival is complete with food and a fe w booths with T-shirts and CDs, but the draw is the excellent roster of local and national blues musicians and the setting. F or information and tickets call & 415/ 979-5588 or visit www.sfblues.com.

In addition to a 775-seat theater , art galleries, and a 5-acre garden, tours for less you ll also find a children s playground, an antique carousel, and other family-friendly attractions here. I f y ou hav e time, pop into Z eum, where the kids can make their o wn claymation- style film clips or create their own cartoon character. If you want some downtime, have the kids play at the playground or enjoy the fountain dedicated to M artin Luther King, Jr., while you savor the interesting tours for less architectural vantage points offered in this urban oasis.

bureau of engraving washington dc North Beach Landfill came betw een the waves and North Beach more than 100 years ago, just one of ma

North Beach Landfill came betw een the waves and North Beach more than 100 years ago, just one of many changes this historic neighborhood bureau of engraving washington dc has experienced. Situated roughly from Broadway to Lombard and Grant to Taylor streets,

Building A, F ort Mason (at Ba y St.). &415/771-6222. www.greensrestaurant.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $8 $14 lunch, $16 $23 dinner; bureau of engraving washington dc prix-fixe (Sat night only) $49. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Tues Sat noon 2:30pm; dinner Sun Fri 5:30 9pm; Sat prix-fixe dinner 5:30 9pm; brunch Sun 10:30am 2pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus to Laguna St. and transfer to the no. 28 bus to Fort Mason.

vietnam veterans memorial wall facts V isit the California P alace of the Legion of Honor , Asian A rt Museum, San Francisco Museum of Mo

1737 Post St. (in the Japan C enter). &415/563-1030. Highchairs. Reservations vietnam veterans memorial wall facts not accepted. vietnam veterans memorial wall facts 2 pieces of sushi $2 $7, g ratuity not included. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am 10pm. Muni: No. 38-Geary bus t o the Japan Center at Webster St.

2576 Lombard St. (bt w. Broderick and Divisadero sts.), San Francisco, CA 94123. &800/346-6118 or 415/921-9406. Fax 415/921-0364. w ww.marinamotel.com. 39 units. $95 $155 double; $119 $219 suit e. Kitchens available for stays of 5 nights or mor e ($10 extra). Additional person $10. Rollaways and cribs $10. AE, DISC, MC, V. Free parking. vietnam veterans memorial wall facts Dogs welcome in some rooms ($10 per night). In room: TV, free wireless Internet access, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron.

V isit the California P alace of the Legion of Honor , Asian A rt Museum, San Francisco Museum of Modern A rt, or de Young Museum, all are free the first Tuesday of each month. The California A cademy of S ciences, vietnam veterans memorial wall facts Exploratorium, and San F rancisco Z oo ar e fr ee the first Wednesday of each month , and the C ontemporary Je wish Museum is fr ee the first Monday of the month. Ride the P owell/Mason cable car t o the Cable Car Museum (p. 178) f or a close-up look at ho w the cars w ork. View displa vietnam veterans memorial wall facts ys of antique equipment, ar tifacts fr om the 1906 ear thquake, and local fir efighting memorabilia at the San Francisco Fire Department Museum (p. 182). Head t o the Main Libr ary s childr en s wing (p. 267) or bring y our w ee ones to story hour at most public librar y branches, vietnam veterans memorial wall facts held ev ery day of the week except Sunday. For a schedule, check w ww.sfpl.org. Tour the cit y on a Muni bus (see Getting Ar ound, in chapt er 4 f or suggestions). Climb the Filbert Steps, the most famous of San Francisco s many staircases, offering lo vely view s and v erdant gar dens. Spend Satur day morning at the Ferry Plaza F armer s Mark et. You could almost make a meal of all the fr esh fruits, breads, spreads, and other f ood samples vietnam veterans memorial wall facts offered by the farmers, breeders, and bakers. Walk down the crooked part of Lombard Street. PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO SAN FRANCISCO

No visit to S an Francisco would be complete without a ride on one of the cable cars. Three cable car r outes trav erse the downtown ar ea. The most scenic is the Powell-Hyde line, star ting off at P owell and Market and ending at the turnaround vietnam veterans memorial wall facts by Ghirardelli Square. Next is the Powell- Mason line, which also begins at P owell and M arket and then meanders thr ough North B each, ending on the east side of Fisherman s Wharf. The third is the California Street line that leav es from Market and California, cr ests at N ob H ill, and ends abr uptly at Van N ess A venue. The queues to board the Powell Street cars at the turnar ounds, at either end, can be daunting; but if you don t board there, you may not get on. Tickets ar e $5 one-way (free for kids under 5 and only $1 befor e 7am and after 9pm), making those M uni passes look even better.

lima puru All child seats manufac tured af ter 1985 ar e c ertified f or airline use , but make sure your chai

Muni passports can be a bargain for visitors who plan to take buses, streetcars, or cable cars often. A 1-day passport lima puru is $11; a 3-day passport is $18; and a 7-day passport is $24. (U sing the passpor t for the C ultureBus requires an additional $3). Kid and senior passpor ts don t exist, but Muni sells monthly y outh (5 17 years old) and senior (65+) passes for $10. Passports and $3 Muni maps (a necessary it em) can be pur chased at the Visitor I nformation C enter on Hallidie Plaza; at Tix Ba y Ar ea on Union S quare; at the baggage lev el inf ormation booths at SFO; at the cable car ticket booths at Powell and Market streets, Hyde and Beach str eets, and Ba y and Taylor str eets; and at sev eral drugst ores throughout the city. Passes and passports lima puru can be found at the cable car ticket booths at Powell and Market or Beach and H yde streets. Single-day passports are available on boar d the cable cars as w ell. For other outlets , check Muni s website at www.sfmuni.com.

All child seats manufac tured af ter 1985 ar e c ertified f or airline use , but make sure your chair will fit in an airline seat it must be less than 16 inches wide. You ma y not use boost er seats or seatless v ests or harness sy stems. Safety seats must be placed in window seats except in exit rows, where they are pr ohibited, so as not t o block the passage of other tra velers in the case of an emer gency.

(p. 175), a stunning glass str ucture o verlooking lima puru a garden with thousands of flowers out front. If it s still open, y ou ll enjoy the Conservatory s collection of unusual and exotic lima puru plants. O r y ou could head straight across JFK D rive to the Car ousel and the Koret Children s Quarter, a very large, very creative playgr ound wher e y ou can thank the kids for their patience all day and let them loose for a while. O ther lovely places in the par k located behind the de Young in the opposite dir ection fr om the playground are the J apanese Tea G arden, Botanical Gardens, and Stowe Lake.

the mall at washington dc 384 Hayes St. (bt w. Franklin and Gough sts.) &415/626-1211. Highchairs, boosters. Main items about

(p. 175), a stunning glass str ucture o verlooking a garden with thousands of flowers out front. If it s still open, y ou ll enjoy the Conservatory s collection of unusual and exotic plants. O r y ou could head straight across JFK D rive to the Car ousel and the Koret Children s Quarter, a very large, very creative playgr the mall at washington dc ound wher e y ou can thank the kids for their patience all day and let them loose for a while. O ther lovely places in the par k located behind the de Young in the opposite dir ection fr om the playground are the J apanese Tea G arden, Botanical Gardens, and Stowe Lake.

North Beach pr ovides more sources for filling y our hamper. Molinari, 373 Columbus Ave. at Vallejo Street (tel] 415/421-2337), is an I talian delicatessen with a fantastic assor tment of impor ted foodstuffs and friendly staff who will create delicious, everything-on- em sandwiches t o go. Also c onsider takeout from Mario s Bohemian Cigar Store (reviewed below). You can t pass on dessert if y ou re anywhere near Victoria Pastry Co., 1362 St ockton St. at Vallejo (&415/781-2015). The chewy almond cookies are divine, as are the cakes, all sold b y the slic e or whole. You ma y be able t o find a bench in Washington Square Park if you can t wait to dig into your lunch. Otherwise, head to North Beach Pla yground at L ombard and M ason str eets, wher e y ou ll find picnic facilities and a playground.

384 Hayes St. (bt w. Franklin and Gough sts.) &415/626-1211. Highchairs, boosters. Main items about $10. AE, V, MC. Mon Fri 8am 8pm; Sat 9am 8pm; Sun 9am 5pm. Muni: No. 12-Hayes bus to Gough St., or streetcar to Van Ness Station.

adventure balloons hawaii CHINESE When you walk into this fav ored joint at the edge of Chinatown, you ve got two options: pr

CHINESE When you walk into this fav ored joint at the edge of Chinatown, you ve got two options: pr oceeding upstairs to the fancier adventure balloons hawaii dining r oom, or descending into the basement. I f you have little ones with y ou, it s likely the host will send you downstairs. This troubled my husband gr eatly; the linoleum flooring, fluor escent lighting, and omnipresent mirrors of the downstairs dining room offended his aesthetic sensibilities. B ut the decor doesn t seem to bother most diners, adventure balloons hawaii who r eturn time and again to R&G for authentically prepared Cantonese fare featuring lots of fresh seafood and plenty of meat dishes as well. Salt-and-pepper crab is a big hit, as is the smoky barbecued pork. Something about putting all the dishes on a big lazy S usan seems to encourage adventuresome adventure balloons hawaii dining, at least with my kids, who happily munched on all kinds of crab, pork, and noodle dishes. For a real conversation-stopper, call 24 hours in advance and order the sweet-rice-stuffed chicken. adventure balloons hawaii 631 Kearny St. (at Commercial adventure balloons hawaii St.). &415/982-7877. www.rnglounge.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7 $25 lunch, $10 $50 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am 9:30pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus.

POOLS Some kids will be happy anywhere y ou take them as long as ther e s a pool. But given San Francisco real estate prices, few hotels devote precious space to swimming facilities, adventure balloons hawaii and most pools that do exist ar e petite. adventure balloons hawaii Almost all the S an Francisco hotels with pools ar e listed adventure balloons hawaii in this chapter.

the need arise. M y husband and I hav e dragged our kids to any number of local restaurants and found that, b y follo wing the guidelines I list below (see the Dining Out in P eace bo x), w e ve been able to enjoy many wonderful dinners and, at the same time, introduce our little ones to new and interesting foods.

desoto national memorial (1) 1 liter of wine or har d liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds

(1) 1 liter of wine or har d liquor; (2) 200 cigarettes, 100 cigars (but not from Cuba), or 3 pounds of smoking tobacco; and (3) $100 worth of gifts. These exemptions desoto national memorial are 17 offered to trav elers who spend at least 72 hours in the U nited States desoto national memorial and who hav e not claimed them within the pr eceding 6 months. It is forbidden to bring into the country foodstuffs (par ticularly fr uit, cooked desoto national memorial meats, and canned goods) desoto national memorial and plants (v egetables, seeds, tr opical plants, and the like). Foreign tourists may carry in or out up to $10,000 in U.S. or for eign currency with no formalities; larger sums must be declar ed to U.S. C ustoms on entering or leaving, desoto national memorial which includes filing form CM 4790. For details regarding U.S. Customs and Bor der P rotection, consult your nearest U.S. embassy or consulate, or

Pier 43 1/2 (at Embar cadero). & 415/362-7733. w ww.franciscanrestaurant.com. H ighchairs, boost ers. Reservations accepted. Main courses $10 $50; kids menu $5. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am 11pm. Muni: F-Market streetcar to Mason St.

AMERICAN/BREAKFAST This is one of the best places for brunch in S an Francisco. Maybe that explains why the line at E lla s usually goes w ell out the door. The menu changes frequently, but expect fresh baked breads, exceptional pancakes, and omelets with appetizing fillings like sausage, mushr oom, roasted red pepper, and Gruy re. To skip the weekend wait, come for a r egular desoto national memorial weekday breakfast. If you just can t come by in the morning, lunch (think cashew egg salad on cornmeal molasses br ead) and dinner (curried lamb stew, perhaps) are also fine times to tr y Ella s neoclassical American cuisine. 500 Presidio Ave. (at C alifornia St.). &415/441-5669. desoto national memorial www.ellassanfrancisco.com. H ighchairs, boost ers. Reservations accepted for lunch only, not for brunch. Main courses $8.75 $12.25 brunch, $5.50 $16 lunch/ dinner. MC, V. Mon Fri 7am 3pm; Sat Sun 8:30am 2pm. Muni: No. 1-California bus to Presidio Ave.

To San F ranciscans, high-quality, sustain- ably pr oduced f ood needn t alwa ys be expensive or c omplicated. I t can, and should, be available in the everyday comfort f oods w e all enjo y. St ep inside and order a juic y bur ger made with locally raised meat and t opped with t omatoes and lettuc e fr esh fr om the F armer s M arket. desoto national memorial Your taste buds will notice the difference between this and an or dinary diner, but your wallet won t. See p. 125.

traveling vietnam memorial 757 Market St. (at 3rd St.), San Francisco, CA 94103. &415/633-3000. Fax 415-633-3001. www.fourseaso

4 405 Taylor St. (at O Farrell St.), San Francisco, CA 94102. &866/289-6561 or 415/885-2500. Fax 415/4744879. www.serranohotel.com. 236 units, including 129 suites. $159 $299 double; $279 $499 suite. Kids under 18 stay free in parent s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $40 oversized v ehicles $49. P ets w elcome. Amenities: Restaurant; ex ercise r oom and sauna; business c enter; room service (limited hours); babysitting; traveling vietnam memorial laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/movies and games, dataport, free high-speed I nternet access, minibar/fridge, hair dr yer, iron, laptop-size safe, iPod dock.

757 Market St. (at 3rd St.), San Francisco, CA 94103. &415/633-3000. Fax 415-633-3001. www.fourseasons. com/sanfrancisco. 277 units. $439 $600 double; from $845 suite. $30 for 3rd adult in room; kids under 18 stay free in parent s room. No rollaways; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $46. Small pets welcome (1 per room). Amenities: Restaurant; bar; health club; concierge; traveling vietnam memorial courtesy car; business center; room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/movies, games, data- port, high-speed Internet access, minibar, coffeemaker (on request), hair dryer, iron, safe, iPod dock.

tourmobile twilight tour 52 As I recall from my own visits to S an Francisco in b ygone y ears, teens feel a magnetic pull to

52 As I recall from my own visits to S an Francisco in b ygone y ears, teens feel a magnetic pull to this place. I f you have some with y ou, definitely hav e lunch here on y our way to or fr om G olden Gate Park, but, because the ar ea can be noisy, and a bit seedy, at night, I wouldn t recommend overnighting here.

140 2001 Fillmore St. (at P ine St.). &415/885-6100. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $5.95 $11. Sun Thurs 11am 10pm; Fri Sat 11am 2am. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Muni: No. 1-California bus to California St., and then walk 1 block south.

September and O ctober are usually great months in S an F rancisco; the fog disappears and the air is warm. O f course, school schedules may be an issue, but perhaps tourmobile twilight tour you can fit in a long w eekend in the city. Fall brings a huge spike in conventions, tourmobile twilight tour but business is normally conducted tourmobile twilight tour during the w eek, leaving hotels to offer weekend packages and discounts.

original london walks MODERATE Pazzia ITALIAN This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the Museum of

80 left over for luggage. I n addition, the junior suites, which are really one big r oom, combine a king-size bed and a queen-size pullout sofa bed. Some of the junior suites also have bigger original london walks bathrooms with even more counter space. The ex ercise r oom is spacious and w ell-equipped, original london walks and the business center has fr ee high-speed wireless Internet original london walks access, as do all the guest r ooms. The lobby serves complimentary coffee in the morning and lemonade original london walks and cookies in the afternoon. original london walks Although the on-site restaurant, Cortez, is excellent, original london walks it s not ideal for a family meal.

Everyone knows that Enrico Caruso, the world-famous opera star, was staying at the Palace Hotel when the great earthquake of 1906 struck. He is remembered, too, for running out of the hotel and vowing never to return to San Francisco. Question: What was he wearing when he made his escape? original london walks Answer: A towel. I don t know if he returned original london walks it.

Koh Samui & The Monkey THAI Thai seems to be the ne w Chinese, with spring rolls and pad Thai having taken the place of broccoli beef and cashew chicken as favored take-out fare. But if you want a break from the typical Thai food you find most places these days, come to K oh S amui. Combinations sur e to whet y our appetite include crushed sesame scallops in yellow curry sauce or pumpkin curry chicken. Certainly, you ll find plenty of familiar menu items, from green papaya salad to green curry chicken. For the kids, order the wok-tossed noodles with peanut sauce or ev en some of the satays. As long as y ou steer clear of anything mar ked with an asterisk (for spicy), the kids will be fine. Be sure to order the fried bananas for dessert. The Monkey part of the name refers to the attractive shop next door, which sells Thai antiques.

MODERATE Pazzia ITALIAN original london walks This restaurant, a quick walk from the Yerba Buena Center and the Museum of Modern Art, serves simple and satisfying dishes like excellent pizza, original london walks delicious pasta, and roasted meats and chicken. The uncomplicated menu is a delightful California twist on traditional Italian fare. The staff is warm and friendly to kids, and it s definitely a family-oriented little place. If you re in the area and want a real, sit-down meal, there s no better pick for the price.

jack the ripper tour reviews Pier 43 1/2 (at Embar cadero). & 415/362-7733. w ww.franciscanrestaurant.com. H ighchairs, boost ers

moms or dads out and about pushing strollers and buying the morning paper, or local urbanites popping into P eet s Coffee & Tea for a double latte before hopping on the bus downtown. If you have the time, head to The Grove (p. 136), grab a cup of joe and maybe some oatmeal for the kids, and enjoy the local scene. If you got a late start, or if the family linger ed over breakfast at your hotel, skip this stop and head straight to no. 2.

Pier 43 1/2 (at Embar cadero). & 415/362-7733. w ww.franciscanrestaurant.com. H ighchairs, boost ers. Reservations accepted. Main courses $10 $50; kids menu $5. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11am 11pm. Muni: F-Market streetcar to Mason St.

national wwii memorial registry Close to the tony Pacific Heights neighborhood, quiet Japantown is home to two hotels that offer mor

Close to the tony Pacific Heights neighborhood, quiet Japantown is home to two hotels that offer more for your money than you ll find in more highly national wwii memorial registry touristed areas. You won t be in the center of the action, but multiple bus lines can get y ou there quickly. Plus, Japantown s Asian shops and r estaurants will add an extra sense of adv enture to y our family vacation.

Bay to Breakers started after the 1906 earthquake as a way to boost the city s spirits and r emains today the longest consecutively run footrace in the world. Although the ev ent, held on the thir d Sunday national wwii memorial registry in May, attracts top-level international athletes, what will interest your

visual travel tours Discuss with y our kids what to do if they get lost: you don t want them walking the streets looking

The cheapest rooming option is usually one room with two queen-size beds. (Note: Some downtown hotels visual travel tours have small rooms, and so hav e two double beds in place of queen-size beds.) With little ones, that could mean lights out w ell befor e mom and dad are ready to pack it in. If that s the case, or if y ou have older kids who need their space, the next best option is a suite, which tends to r un cheaper than two

Discuss with y our kids what to do if they get lost: you don t want them walking the streets looking for y our hotel. If they don t immediately spot a police officer , they might ask the nearest hotel concierge, store clerk, or restaurant hostess to help by calling the police or y our hotel, for example. Take your child s age and level of common sense into consideration when you think about what he or she could do in the unlikely case that he or she becomes lost. Explain whom to avoid (for example, anyone holding a sign, talking to himself or herself, or begging with dogs and cats as props) and whom to approach for help.

Despite its siz e, perpetually cr owded lobby, and, quite frankly , impersonal feel, the hotel s prime location on U nion Square seems to make it v ery popular. If high energy, location, and the historical aspects intrigue y ou, her e s some advice: P hone in-house visual travel tours reservations and be as specific as possible about y our needs. Prices can fluctuate wildly due to the many r oom configurations, some less desirable than others. S tandard queen rooms are barely large enough for two. Traditional queen rooms have more space, and can accommodate a crib or r ollaway. The deluxe double-doubles are very spacious with renovated bathrooms, and the Grandview rooms have smarter decor. Ask for a view or a corner room if you want natural light and avoid rooms by the ever-busy elevators. Hallways visual travel tours go on for ever. If your child has forgotten his sw eatshirt, you ll have to go back to the room with him unless he s outfitted with a compass and a map.

new york vietnam veterans memorial 10 ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY 247 1 2 The Big Venues. 248 Comings & Goings.249Seasonal Event

10 ENTERTAINMENT FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY 247 1 2 The Big Venues. 248 Comings & Goings.249Seasonal Events. 254 6 7 8 Movies. 263Dance. 265Circus Shows. 265 3 4 5 Weekend Shows. 255Theater. 256 What to Do If You Have a Sitter.258Concerts. 261 9 10 11 Spectator Sports. 265 Take Me Out to the Ballpark.266Story Hours. 267Arcades. 268 All-Ages new york vietnam veterans memorial Music Venues.262

The 19th-floor Top of the M ark r estaurant/bar offers a S unday br unch and keeps coloring books on hand for small guests who like to keep busy. It s been a landmark since 1939, and many non-guests make their way up to gawk at the vie w from the panoramic windows. With a prix-fixe gourmet dinner and dancing on w eekend evenings to a liv e orchestra, you needn t stray far fr om the kiddies to enjo y a lively night out on the town.

Sir Francis Drake If you can snag a gr eat deal at this historic hotel, it s an option worth considering. But if you can t find a room rate well below the advertised rack rates, I wouldn t recommend it. Certainly, the 1928 hotel is in a pr emier location by Union Square and on the cable car line. The Harry Denton Starlight Lounge on the top floor is legendary, only slightly less famous than the hotel s beefeater-clad doormen. ( Tom Sweeney, who has been opening new york vietnam veterans memorial doors to guests for mor e than a quar ter-century, is a verifiable San Francisco icon.) new york vietnam veterans memorial And the grandiose, chandelier-lit lobb y, complete with a sweeping marble staircase, offers a majestic new york vietnam veterans memorial taste of the O ld World.

inca trails claremont 56 it s quite manageable all attractions ar e located within 2 squar e miles. I ve av oided overly a

CALIFORNIA Seasonally changing dishes at this enduringly popular SoMa restaurant might include leek, goat cheese, and bacon tart; stuffed pumpkin blossoms; and grilled prawn risotto. Served on large plates, they ar e meant to be shared. Rotisserie specials alternate during the w eek Wednesday may be leg of lamb day, while S aturday is r eserved for r oast duck but the mouth-watering r osemaryscented chicken is a staple. Just make sure you re not seated too close to the rotisserie, lest you come out smelling like smoked meat. With its upscale clientele and sophisticated menu, Lulu s feels quite gr own-up, but with a pizza o ven and plenty of pasta dishes on the menu, y ou ll find something the kids will enjo y. Moreover, the large, multi-r oom space and constant buzz of diners means y ou won t have to worr y about noisy childr en making a scene; no one will hear them. I n its price categor y, Lulu s is one of the mor e family-friendly options in the neighborhood.

56 it s quite manageable all attractions ar e located within 2 squar e miles. I ve av oided overly ambitious suggestions in order to factor in slower walkers, emergency potty breaks, and the tough time you may have tearing the kids away from PIER 39. This itinerary will keep your family moving from one colorful place to the next, giving your children little time to complain of boredom. Indeed, with the crookedest street in the world, antique ships, and noisy sea lions, chances are your kids will want to keep going even when you re tuckered out. Just in case, I ve noted plenty of playgrounds and grassy areas where everyone can take a break. inca trails claremont

the duck tour bathroom. They can be had for $199, if y ou search the Kimpton w ebsite for specials. 77 There are s

The following travel the duck tour guides are available at many bookstor es, or y ou can or der them from any online bookseller: Spartacus I nternational G ay G uide (B runo Gm nder V erlag; www.spartacusworld. com/gayguide) and Odysseus: The I nternational Gay Travel Planner (Odysseus Enterprises Ltd.); the duck tour and the Damron guides (www.damron.com), with separate, annual books for gay men and lesbians.

bathroom. They can be had for $199, if y ou search the Kimpton w ebsite the duck tour for specials. 77 There are some interconnecting rooms as well. Unlike at other Kimpton properties, you will find neither complimentary morning coffee nor afternoon wine in the lobby, but the hotel does have two good restaurants on site: Caffe Espresso and Scala s Bistro. The view is better and the street noise less audible on the upper floors.

wwii memorial washington dc (p. 130), one of the fe w good family restaurants in the area. 495 Jefferson St. (at Hyde St.), San

Temp ( F) 58/46 61/49 62/49 65/50 65/51 68/53 68/54 69/56 71/56 70/55 64/51 59/47 Temp ( C) 14/8 16/9 17/9 18/10 18/11 20/12 20/12 21/13 22/13 21/13 18/11 15/8 Rainfall (in.) 4.7 4.2 3.4 1.3.5.13.04.3 11.2 3 3 3.2

(p. 130), one of the fe w good family restaurants in the area. 495 Jefferson St. (at Hyde St.), San Francisco, CA 94109. &866/415-0704 or 415/563-0800. Fax 415/5632800. www.argonauthotel.com. 252 units. $199 $249 double; $599 $1,000 suite. wwii memorial washington dc Kids under 17 stay free in parent s room. Rollaways $20; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $39; oversized vehicles $54; hybrids $30. Pets welcome. Amenities: Restaurant; concierge; courtesy car; room service (6:15am midnight); babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; executive-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV/DVD w/movies and games, free high-speed I nternet access, minibar/fridge, coffeemaker, hair dr yer, iron, iPod dock in suites. wwii memorial washington dc

Hotel AbRi The Larkspur Hotel group took over the Jeffersonian-styled Monticello Hotel and reopened it in late 2008 with modern, some what masculine, decor. Gone are the festive blue hues of old, replaced by staid beige and brown tones. Wall art, which had not arrived when I visited, will hopefully liv en things up a bit. A t least the interiors ar e spanking new. Beyond that, the hotel offers sev eral two-bedroom suites with king-siz e beds in one room and pullout wwii memorial washington dc sofa sleepers in the other. In its early weeks the hotel was offering promotional rates of $229 for the suites, but that number is expected to r each $349/night. The standard rooms with king-size beds will be priced fr om $229 to $309, which is less of a bargain, since r ollaways aren t allowed. However, the AbRi does have eight rooms with two double beds. It claims those double beds, and indeed wwii memorial washington dc all of its beds, are the comfiest in town, featuring feather mattress pads, feather duvets, and, of course, feather pillows.

(Embarcadero/South Beach, $$, p. 124) CREPES Crepe Express (The Haight, $, p. 142) Crepevine (Japantown/Pacific Heights/ Presidio Heights, $, p. 138) Frjtz (Civic Center/Hayes Valley, Mission, $, p. 133)

kenes tours p. 118. Closer in tone to an E nglish village teashop is Lovejoy s Tea Room (1351 Church St.; & 415/

p. 118. Closer in tone to an E nglish village teashop is Lovejoy s Tea Room (1351 Church St.; & 415/648-5895), kenes tours often filled with ladies having a t te- t te and little girls practicing to be big girls. See p. 148. Best O utdoor D ining: The v ery best outdoor dining area belongs to the Park Chalet (1000 G reat Hwy.; & 415/ 386-8439), which opens onto an expansive garden kenes tours at the western edge of Golden G ate P ark. I n fact, with glass walls and a glass ceiling, kenes tours the whole restaurant feels like you re outdoors. kenes tours See 15

dealing with a gr oup whose members may all hav e differ ent inter ests. M ake the kids active participants in your upcoming adventure by talking through the activities you can all enjoy. This chapter provides updated information on those activities, with details on when to go and how to get there.

galveston duck tour Handlery Union S quare Value A family-owned and -operated hotel for mor e than 60 y ears, the all no

EXPENSIVE San Francisco Marriott I first checked out this hotel because galveston duck tour it has a pool, and as I stated at the beginning of this chapter , I intend to list as many hotels with pools as possible provided they re wor th listing. When I walked into the lobb y, I star ted to wonder. Serving guests in a whopping 1,498 r ooms (!), the lobb y of this confer enceoriented hotel is predictably frenetic and crowded at most times of the day. The escalator ride up from the lobby takes you to the mezzanine level, inside an ambitious four-story

Since y ou visit ed the F erry Building and saw ho w seriously San F ranciscans galveston duck tour take their food, you might as w ell visit one of the first r estaurants in t own dev oted t o delicious, unc omplicated c ooking using local, seasonal ing redients (p. 132). F or a more casual dinner , tr y the off erings at Frjtz, which include galveston duck tour crisp y Belg ian fries , salads, and crepes (p. 133).

Handlery Union S quare Value A family-owned and -operated hotel for mor e than 60 y ears, the all nonsmoking H andlery is notable for being the only do wntown hotel with an outdoor, heated pool. The pool isn t huge, but it s hugely popular especially after 4pm when guests galveston duck tour return from a day of sightseeing or shopping. The Handlery is also so close to U nion Square s central plaza that y ou can see it fr om the fr ont door. With its pool and location, no wonder the lobb y is always packed. M oreover, bedding, curtains, and other soft goods w ere r eplaced in late 2008. The r ed-accented beige designs are simple and pleasant, and ne w furnishings are expected in late 2009. G uest rooms and bathrooms in the historic, 1908 G eary Street building are small the kingsize- bedded standar ds hav e just enough r oom for a crib. That said, the family suites, ranging from $245 to $399, are an excellent option for large families. There, a queen-size bed, two double-doubles, and a sofa bed accommodate a total of six sleepyheads.

Warning: Around Fisherman s Wharf and elsewhere, you may see manned booths with signs proclaiming themselves tourist information centers. These booths are operated by organizations such as the Fisherman s Wharf Merchants Association or by tour companies, boat lines, or other attractions, and, as such, ar e not the best sour ce of unbiased advice. For that, you should phone or visit the Visitor Information Center mentioned above.

petra bethlehem The Grateful Dead at San F rancisco s Fillmore Auditorium. 1977 Harvey M ilk is elec ted t o the San

1737 Post St. (in the Japan C enter). &415/563-1030. Highchairs. Reservations not accepted. 2 pieces of sushi $2 $7, g ratuity not included. AE, MC, V. Daily 11:30am 10pm. Muni: No. 38-Geary petra bethlehem bus t o the Japan Center at Webster St.

216 King St. (at 3rd St.). &415/546-6666. Cow Hollow: 2200 Lombard St. (at Steiner St.). &415/885-125 4500. www.amicis.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations not accepted. Main courses $8.25 $30. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. M on Thurs 11am 10pm; F ri 11am 11pm; Sat 11:30am 11pm; Sun 11:30am 10pm. Muni: N-Judah streetcar to the 4th and King Station, and then walk 1/2 block east on King St.

The Grateful Dead at San F rancisco petra bethlehem s Fillmore Auditorium. 1977 Harvey M ilk is elec ted t o the San F rancisco Boar d of Super visors, becoming the first openly gay man to be elected to major public office in the United States.

San Francisco occupies the northernmost tip of a 32-mile-long peninsula. Its western coast is battered by a chilly and unrelentingly forceful piece of the Pacific Ocean, while its eastern side looks out onto the calm waters of San Francisco Bay, the Bay Bridge, and the towns and mountains bey ond. To the nor th, the photogenic G olden Gate Bridge spans the tiny opening to the bay, less than 2 miles in length, and connects San Francisco to the picturesque hills of Marin County. San Francisco has its own share of hills, and as such offers visitors one fabulous vie w after another.

the duck tour If you have just 1 day in San Francisco, this itinerary introduces you to many of the city s most fa

If you have just 1 day in San Francisco, this itinerary introduces you to many of the city s most famous attractions without leaving your kids, or you, in a heap. You ll visit Union Square, ride a scenic cable car r oute, tour F isherman s Wharf, take a br eak in N orth Beach, and gape at the sights, sounds, the duck tour and smells of Chinatown. While it seems like a lot,

Finds ITALIAN This neighborhood fav orite is no or dinary Italian restaurant. Considered one of the best trattorie in S an Francisco, its homemade pasta dishes are deliciously uncomplicated, accentuating high-quality , fresh ingredients over busy, heavy sauces. The menu also varies with the time of year. Although you can t go wr ong with any of the pasta dishes, including such possibilities as fettuccine the duck tour with porcini mushrooms, the duck tour oven-dried olives, and brown-butter sage, if you consider a fish or meat dish for a change y ou will not be disappointed. O ptions such as Alaskan halibut and clams in white wine and tomatoes, or thinly sliced sirloin steak with ar ugula and roasted potatoes, are delectable. If you have room for dessert, the rich chocolate cake and airy tiramisu are transcendent. The crisp white walls, warm wood furnitur e, and unpretentious decor match the elegant food per fectly. Antica has no kids menu, but the kitchen is happy to serve a kids portion of hot buttered penne with veggies, and Vicki, the charming hostess, keeps a supply of cray ons on hand. Whenever we eat at Antica, which is frequently, we wonder why we don t come even more often. 2400 Polk St. (at Union St.). &415/928-5797. www.anticasf.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended on weekends. Main courses $11.50 $21.50. the duck tour AE, DC, MC, V. Tues Thurs, Sun 5:30 9:30pm; Fri Sat 5:30 10:30pm. Muni: No. 19-Polk to Union St., no. 41-Union, or no. 45-Union-Stockton bus to Polk St.

duck tour boston 1800 Sutt er St. (at Buchanan St.), San F rancisco, CA 94115. & 800/738-7477 or 415/921-4000. F ax 4

Checking Out the Scene at the M aritime National Historical Park: Young kids will lo ve exploring the antique ships of the H yde Street Pier (p. 170), running around on the grass at Victorian Park, and gaping at the crazy swimmers in A quatic P ark who brav e the Bay s chilly waters. All the while, grown- ups can mar vel at the lo vely scener y. Then ev eryone can grab a snack fr om the S an F rancisco C repe Car t in The Cannery (p. 132), and perhaps listen to some music from a local performer. Hanging O ut in G olden G ate P ark: You don t need an agenda duck tour boston to fritter away the hours ar ound San Francisco s most famous park. The antique carousel is a big draw , as is the K oret Childr en s Quarter, a world-class playgr ound. The Japanese Tea G arden is so composed duck tour boston and elegant y ou ll want to meditate there, but the kids will pr efer stepping over the stone walkways and scaling the Drum B ridge. B udding duck tour boston botanists will appreciate the dahlia garden outside the Conservatory of Flowers and will especially enjo y ogling the carniv orous plants inside. The de Young M useum tower affor ds super city vie ws and the Three G ems str ucture in the sculptur duck tour boston e garden is a great place to chill out for a moment. duck tour boston O n S undays, the par k is closed to traffic; near 6th A venue and Fulton S treet, be sur e to look for the skate dancers, who put on a fine sho w. See p. 173. Traveling through the jungle and the heavens at the California Academy of Sciences: This Golden Gate Park attraction deserves its own heading. Opened in late 2008 in a ne w awar d-winning home, the world s most eco-friendly museum will inspir e the botanist, marine biologist, or astronomer in your child. B reathe in the moist air of the world s rainforests, soak up the scener y atop the living roof, fawn over the fishes of the Steinhart Aquarium, and experience space trav el in the P lanetarium. See p. 178.

Be sure to mention that you re traveling with kids when you call in-house reservations. The hotel has age-appropriate amenities duck tour boston such as milk and cookies at check-in, knapsacks, and maps, plus, 8- to 11-year-olds qualify to act as doorman for a day. Now, don t get excited: No one s putting your kids to work while you take off for Saks. But kids get to wear a hat, blow a whistle, and have a photo taken with the doorman duck tour boston all at no charge. The gorgeous Laurel Court dining room serves duck tour boston afternoon tea with a choice of menus, including one for children. The kitschy Tonga Room provides duck tour boston a tropical rainstorm duck tour boston during happy hour (with inexpensive hors d oeuvres). If your kids are Eloise fans, or just have excellent taste, they ll love this hotel.

Naan-N-Curry Value INDIAN/P AKISTANI When S an F ranciscans want good, inexpensive I ndian/Pakistani duck tour boston food, they come to N aan-N-Curry. F lavorful tandoorioven- baked meats, delightful curries, a gr eat selection of v egetarian options, and plenty of naan breads are on offer here. Although some dishes can be too spicy for younger kids, we ve found a fe w items that ev en our y oung daughters lo ve, including chicken tikka masala, which is cooked in a mild yogurt duck tour boston sauce, and vegetable biryani, or vegetables with rice. With a casual atmosphere and hearty portions for just pennies, it s worth branching out from pizza, noodles, and the other usual suspects.

1800 Sutt er St. (at Buchanan St.), San F rancisco, CA 94115. & 800/738-7477 or 415/921-4000. F ax 415/563-1278. www.jdvhotels.com/tomo. 125 units. duck tour boston $109 $189 double; from $550 suite. Kids under 17 stay free in parent s room. Rollaway $10; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Self-parking for $20/day or on overflow lot a f ew blocks a way for $15/day. No pets. Amenities: Restaurant; c oncierge; fitness c enter; laundry duck tour boston service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV w/movies and games, dataport, wireless Internet access, fridge, coffeemaker, hair dryer, iron, iPod dock.

duck amphibious vehicle I ve made an effort to provide some insights in this book that will make y our family s stay in S an

Noe Valley In the late 80s, families began moving in dr oves into this hilly neighborhood south of the Castr o, transforming petite Victorians into stylishly r emodeled homes. You ll find a number of shops and cafes on 24th Street betw een D iamond and Chur ch streets. The playgr ound at D ouglass and 27th str eets, and the Walter Haas playground at D iamond Heights Boulevard and A ddison duck amphibious vehicle S treet, ar e both delightful. The neighborhood is otherwise pretty quiet.

I ve made an effort to provide duck amphibious vehicle some insights in this book that will make y our family s stay in S an Francisco more rewarding and memorable. Visits to the city s most famous attractions will certainly be enjoyable, but I hope that you take the time to stray off the beaten path if ev en just a little. When in F isherman s Wharf, consider skipping the T-shirt shops and candy vendors of PIER 39 and heading instead to the Hyde Street Pier, where you can get a r eal sense of the city s seafaring past (while the kids climb all o ver antique duck amphibious vehicle ships). duck amphibious vehicle I n Chinato wn, go ahead and check out the color ful tourist stor es on

suites with full kitchens and discounts for stays longer than 5 days. S ee p. 97. The kitchen units at the Marina Motel (2576 Lombard St.; & 800/346-6118 or 415/921-9406) are available to those staying duck amphibious vehicle 7 nights or mor e. S ee p. 98.

vietnam wall washington dc The ultra-cool attitude continues in the guest r ooms, which ar e sleek, modern, and subtly accented

INEXPENSIVE Arlequin SANDWICHES Opened by the owners of nearby Absinthe, a swanky restaurant for the pre-theater set, Arlequin serves the needs of hungry shoppers, sightseers, and local merchants vietnam wall washington dc in search of a nice, simple lunch in a lo vely setting. Order a homemade soup , a flav orful sandwich with a gourmet touch think r oasted chicken with tangy aioli or a freshly made salad and head out to the surprisingly pleasant and serene garden out back. or at least it will be ser ene until the kids start running amok. (Well, better outside than inside.)

The British tradition of high t ea is quite different vietnam wall washington dc from afternoon tea. High tea was a hearty meal eaten by the working class around the kitchen table, which often featured high-back chairs hence the name. Afternoon tea is a more delicate affair with guests perched on the end of cushioned chairs and sett ees, and with the lady of the house pla ying Mother, a term of endearment bestowed on the person in charge of pouring the tea.

The ultra-cool attitude continues in the guest r ooms, which ar e sleek, modern, and subtly accented rather than overcome by color. Wall units house entertainment centers, and shutters replace curtains on the windows. (The clean lines are handsome, but they don t block light completely.) Sharing a double-double could cut housing rates back to the moderate range. Connecting king and double-double r ooms work well for larger families. Rollaway beds are only allowed in Cool Corner king r ooms. Fantastic Suites, starting at $1,000, connect vietnam wall washington dc a Cool Corner r oom with a sitting room that has a Murphy bed. Other child-pleasing features include an indoor lap pool and r oom service. Adults will appreciate the views and the 24-hour concierge ser vices.

CALIFORNIA/BRUNCH Named after the street it s on, this low-key spot is in a part of town that really was once the town s end, with little beyond it except warehouses and other industrial buildings. Now the little neighborhood of South Beach FAMILY-FRIENDLY DINING

washington national cathedral gift shop For years, the Tuscan Inn could proudly call itself the best hotel in Fisherman s Wharf. Now that ti

Ask your children what they would like to do during the trip. G ive them options, make a calendar , and follo w through on some of their suggestions. This doesn t mean they are in charge. It means they get to participate in a bit of decision-making. Give them a camera. E ither buy an inexpensive digital camera for y our kids, or let them use y ours (car efully) once in a while. I t s empo wering and cheap since you can just delete all the pictures washington national cathedral gift shop with people s heads cut off and provides a new way for your kids to think about sightseeing. Have them keep a journal. E ven before they could write, we gave our girls notebooks so they could draw pictur es of things they saw on each trip. Now, on vacations, they enjo y spending the fe w minutes befor e dinner arriv es writing washington national cathedral gift shop about their day. Look at the silv er lining. Taking our toddler son back to hotels for naps in the middle washington national cathedral gift shop of the day is my ex cuse for me to read a good book. or enjo y a nice nap myself, something that s rare at home. Relax. When y ou slo w do wn, forget about stresses of home, and all focus on your ne w surr oundings, y ou and y our family can build some lasting memories together. How to Take Great Trips with Y our Kids (The Harvard Common Press) is full of good general advice that can apply to travel anywhere.

For years, the Tuscan Inn could proudly call itself the best hotel in Fisherman s Wharf. Now that title will have to be passed on to the Argonaut. (Both hotels are part of the Kimpton washington national cathedral gift shop hotel group.) Tuscan Inn rates are lower than the Argonaut s, but the inn is located on the less picturesque end of Fisherman s Wharf and doesn t have bay views. One thing both hotels washington national cathedral gift shop lack is a pool, so if you re dead-set on one in this neighborhood, you ll have to go with one of the national chains. What the Tuscan Inn does have are spacious guest rooms and bathrooms handsomely furnished in warm, inviting colors. R ooms are filled with amenities, including a combination honor bar/fridge, and y ou can bring Fido with you too. The comfortable lobby puts out hot chocolate and biscotti in the mornings, washington national cathedral gift shop not just coffee and tea, and hosts a complimentary wine hour in the evenings. More important, the concierge here is friendly and intelligent, setting the tone for the r est of the staff.

That said, if you absolutely want to visit and have the kids in tow, not to worry. The staff is friendly and r elaxed. Moreover, washington national cathedral gift shop chef Stoll and his wife Annie ar e parents themselves and sure to be accommodating. B ut if you re in any way concerned that the place may be too much for your kids, just head next door to Pizzeria Delfina (see below). Note: While I ve listed Delfina in the expensive category, the reasonable prices washington national cathedral gift shop almost justify listing it in the moderate categor y.

vietnam war memorial location The Powell-Hyde cable car stops a half block from ZA Pizza. Grab some slices to go and re-board the

The Powell-Hyde cable car stops a half block from ZA Pizza. Grab some slices to go and re-board the cable car for the ride to Aquatic Park. Munching on tasty slices of crisp-crusted pizza with a view of both bridges sounds like a special moment vietnam war memorial location to me.

Online, the Single Parent Travel Network (www.singleparenttravel.net) offers excellent advice, trav el specials, a bulletin board, and a fr ee electr onic ne wsletter. The Family T ravel Forum (www.familytravelforum. com) also hosts a single parent trav el bulletin boar d for tips fr om fellow travelers.

415 Brannan St. (at 3rd St.). &415/369-0007. www.kohsamuiandthemonkey.com. Highchairs, vietnam war memorial location boosters. Reservations accepted. Main courses vietnam war memorial location $8 $22. MC, V. Mon Sat 11am 3pm; Sun Thurs 5 10pm; Fri Sat 5 10:30pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton or no. 45-Union vietnam war memorial location to Brannan St.

ahi tours Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 ( & 888/687-2277; www.aarp. org), get discounts on hote

Cafe Pescatore ITALIAN You could pr obably pay less for I talian fare a few blocks away in North Beach, but this is the whar f, after all. Given the alternatives, this trattoria ahi tours located on one corner of the Tuscan ahi tours Inn hotel looks downright appealing. ahi tours Floor-to-ceiling windows open onto heated sidewalk seating, but there s no ocean view here (the waterfront is 2 blocks away). M enu highlights include Caesar salad, wood-fir ed pizza, and plenty of pasta options. O rder simply, and y ou ll do fine. The kids menu includes pasta or pizza, which kids can have plain, with sausage, or with another topping of their choice. ahi tours

Persons), 601 E St. NW, Washington, DC 20049 ( & 888/687-2277; www.aarp. org), get discounts on hotels, air fares, and car rentals. AARP offers members a wide range of benefits, ahi tours including AARP The Magazine and a monthly ahi tours ne wsletter. Anyone over 50 can join.

nashville tours pink bus the heavy concentration of tourists has its drawbacks, such as o verpriced, mediocr e food). F or mo

4 Hostelling In ternational S an F rancisco Downtown For less than $30 per person, nashville tours pink bus your family can experience dorm life in an old San Francisco style building right in the heart of Union Square. Occupying five sparsely decorated floors, rooms here are simple and clean. Each has two or three bunk beds with linens, a sink, a closet, and lockers nashville tours pink bus (bring your own locks or buy some at the front desk). nashville tours pink bus Although most private rooms share hallway bathrooms, a few have private facilities. Prices are per person in the dorm rooms and per double bed in the private room. Since kids under 12 are an additional nashville tours pink bus $14 per night, the hostel option becomes less of a deal when y ou add more than one child. Among sev eral common r ooms is a large kitchen-style r oom with r efrigerator space, toasters, and a microwave, but no stoves or ranges.

the heavy concentration of tourists has its drawbacks, such as o verpriced, mediocr e food). F or mor e information about the lodging merits of each neighborhood, refer to the N eighborhoods in B rief section of chapter 3.

San Francisco has a lot going for it. F or its geographic setting, it ranks as one of the loveliest cities on ear th. The tolerant, open-minded population includes a dynamic mix of cultures from around the globe. The city produces some of the most innovative cuisine in the country and is home to a plethora of cultural institutions as well. Finally, from this little nook in N orthern California, one can r eadily visit some of the most dramatic mountains, beautiful beaches, and stunning national par ks in the world.

Children of any age will be impr essed arriving at this landmark 1907 hotel, which adorns one side of Nob Hill with its imposing facade and colorful flags. Inside, the expansive lobby s high ceilings, marble columns, and chandeliers will leave little girls expecting Cinderella to turn up. Despite the splendor, the overall feeling is relaxed and friendly. Guest rooms in the historic building are spacious by any standard, and the closets are so large that many will comfortably fit a crib or even a rollaway! If you prefer separate showers and tubs and a stellar view select a room in the tower building. Numerous combinations of suites and r ooms, with king-size beds, queens, or double- doubles, are available.

maupin tours 5 In-N-Out Burger HAMBURGERS Having spent my teenage y ears in California, I can tell y ou that I n-

5 In-N-Out Burger HAMBURGERS Having spent my teenage y ears in California, I can tell y ou that I n-N-Out is a state wide phenomenon. F ans who insist it s the best fast food anywhere tell me what makes the burgers so good ar e the toasted maupin tours buns, crisp lettuce, and fresh tomatoes. They also swoon o ver the extra-crisp , extra-thin fries, which ar e, in addition to a grilled-cheese sandwich, the only vegetarian option on the very short menu.

Many trav el agencies maupin tours offer customiz ed tours and itineraries maupin tours for trav elers with disabilities. Among them ar e Flying Wheels Travel (&877-451-5006 or &507/4515005; www.flyingwheelstravel.com) and Accessible J ourneys (& 800/846-4537 or 610/521-0339; www.disabilitytravel. com). Avis Rent a Car has an Avis Access

When y ou appr oach a garage , r ead the sig ns car efully. You ma y see a sig n offering a cheap all-day rat e. I n fac t, that rat e ma y apply only t o cars that arrive early in the morning. A fter that, rat es can be as high as $4 ev ery 15 minutes! G arages at plac es like PIER 39 ma y adv ertise fr ee or disc ounted parking; but impossibly small writing underneath explains that validation from a st ore or r estaurant is r equired. The best rat es ar e at cit y-owned garages , many of which ar e list ed her e:

donald rumbelow 601 Union St. (at Stockton St.). &415/421-5633. www.joedimaggiosrestaurant.com. Highchairs, boosters

601 Union St. (at Stockton St.). &415/421-5633. www.joedimaggiosrestaurant.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16 $38. AE, DISC, MC, V. Daily 5 11pm. Muni: P owell- Mason cable car to Union St., and then walk 2 blocks east, or no. 30-Stockton bus to Union St.

In addition to the star-rating system, we also use six feature icons that point you to the great deals, in-the-kno donald rumbelow w advice, and unique donald rumbelow experiences that separate trav elers fr om tourists. Throughout the book, look for:

144 Memphis Minnie s BARBECUE If you ve got a hankering for a tender piece of slow- cooked meat, head straight to M emphis Minnie s. The owner smokes his brisket for 12 hours and adds his o wn spice rub for kick and flav or. Other options are finger-lickinggood ribs and succulent pulled por k. The protocol is simple: stand in line and choose your meat and two sides, such as sw eet potato or corn muffin, and hav e a seat at one of the tables lined up against donald rumbelow the bright y ellow and r ed wall. Look ar ound at the playful decor, which includes plastic pigs, black-and-white co w-print ceiling fans, pinned donald rumbelow up trucker hats, and pithy sayings like Never Trust a Skinny Cook. You can also read the favorable newspaper clippings about Minnie s under glass at each table. O nce your meal is ready, choose from one of the thr ee sauces at your table: donald rumbelow red Texan, North Carolina vinegar, and South Carolina yellow mustard. Fortunately, each table has a full r oll of paper towels on it as well. All the meat is delicious, and most of the sides, with the exception of the overly dry corn muffins, are tasty, too.

la studio tours Dragon Well Finds CHINESE Dragon Well was established with the idea of serving light, fresh, flavorf

ITALIAN A perennial favorite among in-the-kno w locals, L Osteria seems to hav e as many people lining up outside as ar e actually seated inside. Once you have gotten a table, you ll appreciate the authentic, rustic feel in the cozy dining room. The terrific Italian dishes, which rank among the best in North Beach, include such delightful dishes as crepes filled with saut ed porcini mushrooms, ham, and b chamel sauce; and succulent skewered lamb marinated in ginger, rosemary, and garlic. If the kids are apt to be noisy, this tiny place may not be the best choice. 519 Columbus Ave. (btw. Union and Green sts.). &415/982-1124. www.losteriadelforno.com. Reservations not ac cepted. Highchairs. Main courses $5 $19. No cr edit cards. Mon, Wed, Thurs, la studio tours Sun 11:30am la studio tours 10pm; Fri Sat 11:30am 10:30pm. Closed Tues. Muni: Powell-Mason cable car to Union St., and then walk 2 blocks east, or no. 30-Stockton bus to Union St., and then walk 1 block east.

Dragon Well Finds CHINESE Dragon Well was established with the idea of serving light, fresh, flavorful, and reliably good Chinese food. It has succeeded. This is definitely la studio tours west coast Chinese, the Tex-Mex of Asian food, but it s the best rendition of it I ve had. Traditional favorites like pork-filled pot stickers (a big hit with my kids) and cashew chicken are exceptionally well executed, and the tea-smoked duck, ser ved in a bun with plum sauce, is not to be missed. Owned b y a friendly and talented local mom, D ragon Well is pr obably the fav orite takeout destination for most local families. The interior decor spacious and airy, in keeping with the light and healthful food makes D ragon Well an inviting place to eat in as w ell. I m confident everyone in your family will enjoy his or her meal at Dragon Well.

ellis island interactive tour Companies that have offices downtown include Avis, 675 Post St. ( & 415/8855011; www.avis.com); Budg

SPANISH/TAPAS Like many top cooks in San Francisco, lauded chef Gerald Hirigoyen was not content to hav e only high-end r estaurants, ellis island interactive tour like his P iperade, that only ser ves some of the people ellis island interactive tour some of the time. A t Bocadillos, the B asque-born Hirigoyen serves delectable ellis island interactive tour bite-size tidbits ellis island interactive tour ( bocadillos means just that in S panish: bite- size snacks) in a cozy, low-key dining room with a long, communal table ser ving as its centerpiece. Essentially, what y ou get her e ar e tapas, and each is delightful, fr om the roasted peppers to the Catalan sausage to the lamb chops with mint chutney. While Bocadillos is casual and w ell priced, it may hav e too much of a boister ous after-work crowd for kids. Best to try it for lunch. 710 M ontgomery St. (at Washington St.). & 415/982-2622. www.bocasf.com. Reser vations not accepted. Tapas $3 $16. AE, DC, MC, V. Mon Wed 7am 10pm; Thurs-Fri 7am 10:30pm; Sat 5 10:30pm. Muni: No. 12-Folsom to Pacific, and then walk 2 blocks south, or no. 15-3rd St. to Jackson St., and then walk 1 block south.

Companies that have offices downtown include Avis, 675 Post St. ( & 415/8855011; www.avis.com); Budget, 5 E mbarcadero Ctr. ( & 415/433-3717; www. budget.com); Enterprise, 222 M ason St. (&415/837-1700; www.enterprise.com); Hertz, 325 Mason St. (&415/771-2200; www.hertz.com); and Thrifty, 350 O Farrell St. (&415/788-8111; www.thrifty.com).

Muni passports can be a bargain for visitors who plan to take buses, streetcars, or cable cars often. A 1-day passport is $11; a 3-day passport is $18; and a 7-day passport is $24. (U sing the passpor t for the C ultureBus requires an additional $3). Kid and senior passpor ts don t exist, but Muni sells monthly y outh (5 17 years old) and senior (65+) passes for $10. Passports and $3 Muni maps (a necessary it em) can be pur chased at the Visitor I nformation C enter on Hallidie Plaza; at Tix Ba y Ar ea on Union S quare; at the baggage lev el inf ormation booths at SFO; at the cable car ticket booths at Powell and Market streets, Hyde and Beach str eets, and Ba y and Taylor str eets; and at sev eral drugst ores throughout ellis island interactive tour the city. Passes and passports can be found at the cable car ticket booths at Powell and Market or Beach and H yde streets. Single-day passports are available on boar d the cable cars as w ell. For other outlets , check Muni s website at www.sfmuni.com.

national mall memorials 950 M ason St. (at C alifornia St.), San F rancisco, CA 94108. & 800/441-1414 or 415/772-5000. F ax.

950 M ason St. (at C alifornia St.), San F rancisco, CA 94108. & 800/441-1414 or 415/772-5000. F ax. 95 415/772-5013. w ww.fairmont.com/sanfrancisco. 591 units. $199 $499 double; fr om $500 suit e. K ids under 17 sta y fr ee in par ent s r oom. Rolla ways $30; cribs fr ee. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet park ing $50. Amenities: 2 r estaurants; out door t errace; bar ; c oncierge; business c enter; salon; 24-hr. r oom ser vice; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning; complimentary morning national mall memorials coffee and tea in lobby. In room: A/C, TV/DVD and games, fax, dataport, high-speed national mall memorials Internet access, minibar, national mall memorials hair dryer, iron, safe, CD player, iPod dock in suites.

4 335 Powell St. (at Geary St.), San Francisco, CA 94102. &800/WESTIN-1 (937-8461) or 415/397-7000. Fax 415/774-0124. www.westin.com. 1,195 units. $149 $569 double; $250 $5,000 suit e. Kids under 18 stay free in parent s room. Rollaways and cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $45; oversized vehicles $52. Small dogs welcome. Amenities: 3 restaurants; 2 bars; health club; concierge; business center; shopping arcade; 24-hr. room service; massage; babysitting; laundry service; dry cleaning. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, high-speed Internet access, minibar, hair dryer, iron, safe.

war dogs memorial Francisco s steepest str eets, giving y ou a good sense of the city s photogenic, hilly topography.

The TSA has phased out gate check-in at all U.S. airports. Passengers with e-tickets can still beat the ticket-counter lines by using airport electronic kiosks or online check-in from your home computer. Ask your airline which alternativ es ar e av ail- able, and if you re using a kiosk, bring the credit card you used to book the ticket or your frequent-flier card. If you re checking bags or looking to snag an exit-r ow seat, you will be able to do so using most airlines kiosks; again, call y our airline for up-to-date information. Curbside check- in is also a good way to av oid lines, although war dogs memorial a fe w airlines still ban curbside check-in; call before you go.

Francisco s steepest str eets, giving y ou a good sense of the city s photogenic, hilly topography. You ll pass right b y the Cable Car Museum (p. 178). I f it s past 10am, take a moment to check it out. It s free and quite interesting. If it s closed, perhaps you can take a detour war dogs memorial there later when you are in Chinatown.

38 your child has asthma or any medical condition that requires medication, and there s a chance y ou ll r equire war dogs memorial extra inhalers, an EpiPen, or whatever, make sure you bring along a pr escription fr om y our pediatrician. I f y our child accidentally swallo ws something scar y, call the S tate P oison Control hot line, available 24 hours a day, at & 800/876-4766. Along with important medications, pack an emergency pair of glasses or contact lenses. I list hospitals and emergency numbers in the F ast Facts section of chapter 4. If you suffer from a chronic illness, consult y our doctor befor e y our depar ture. Pack prescription medications in y our carry-on luggage, and carr y them in their original containers, with pharmacy labels otherwise they won t make it thr ough airport security. Visitors from outside the U.S. should carry generic names of pr escription drugs. F or U.S. trav elers, most r eliable health-care plans pr ovide co verage if y ou get sick away fr om home. F oreign visitors war dogs memorial may have to pay medical costs upfr ont and be reimbursed later.

distance rome to venice The hotel s restaurant serves all day in a spor ts-bar-like atmosphere surrounded by a total of 28 T

Building A, F ort Mason (at Ba y St.). &415/771-6222. www.greensrestaurant.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. distance rome to venice Main courses $8 $14 lunch, $16 $23 dinner; prix-fixe (Sat night only) $49. AE, DISC, MC, V. Lunch Tues Sat noon 2:30pm; dinner Sun Fri 5:30 9pm; Sat prix-fixe dinner 5:30 9pm; brunch Sun 10:30am 2pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus to Laguna St. and transfer to the no. 28 bus to Fort Mason.

The hotel s restaurant serves all day in a spor ts-bar-like atmosphere surrounded by a total of 28 TVs, one of them measuring a whopping 126 inches. O lder kids will enjo y the game room, complete with two pool tables, shuffleboar d, and arcade machines. The staff is friendly and helpful, especially the concierge, who will provide you with discount coupons distance rome to venice for whar f attractions. Look for r oom deals on the H yatt w ebsite, but don t expect attractive weekend rates. Weekends here see high occupancy.

384 Hayes St. (bt w. Franklin and Gough sts.) &415/626-1211. Highchairs, boosters. Main items about $10. AE, V, MC. Mon Fri 8am 8pm; Sat 9am 8pm; Sun 9am 5pm. Muni: No. 12-Hayes bus to Gough St., or streetcar to Van Ness Station.

North Beach pr ovides more sources for filling y our hamper. Molinari, 373 Columbus Ave. at Vallejo Street distance rome to venice (tel] 415/421-2337), is an I talian delicatessen with a fantastic distance rome to venice assor tment of impor ted foodstuffs and friendly staff who will create delicious, everything-on- em sandwiches t o go. Also c onsider takeout from Mario s Bohemian Cigar Store (reviewed below). You can t pass on dessert if y ou re anywhere distance rome to venice near Victoria Pastry Co., 1362 St ockton St. at Vallejo (&415/781-2015). The chewy almond cookies are divine, as are the cakes, all sold b y the slic e or whole. You ma y be able t o find a bench in Washington Square Park if you can t wait to dig into your lunch. Otherwise, head to North Beach Pla yground at L ombard and M ason str eets, wher e y ou ll find picnic facilities and a playground.

washington holocaust museum Children could easily be entertained here for an entire day. For a more tranquil visit, hang out on

1625 Post St. (at Laguna St.), San F rancisco, CA 94115. &800/533-4567 or 415/922-3200. Fax 415/6145498. www.jdvhotels.com/kabuki. 218 units, 15 suites. $129 $289 double; $209 $329 suit e. Kids under 17 stay free in parent s room. Rollaways $15; cribs free. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Valet parking $35/day, self- parking $15/night. Amenities: Restaurant; c oncierge; business c enter; fitness c enter; r oom ser vice (6:30am 11pm), laundry service; dry cleaning; club-level rooms. In room: A/C, TV, dataport, free wireless high-speed Internet access, fridge, tea kettle, hair dryer, iron, safe, iPod dock.

If y ou or y our child suffer fr om a chronic illness, consult your doctor before your depar ture. F or conditions like epilepsy, diabetes, or hear t problems, wear a MedicAlert identification tag (& 888/ 633-4298; www.medicalert.org), which will immediately aler t doctors to y our condition and giv e them access to y our records thr ough M edic Aler t s 24-hour hotline.

Children could easily be entertained here for an entire day. For a more tranquil visit, hang out on the Ghirardelli side, where kids can climb aboard the Hyde Street Pier boats, frolic washington holocaust museum at the Aquatic Park beach, washington holocaust museum and listen to music in the cour tyard of The Cannery. For a healthy dose of o ver-stimulation, walk east to see P IER 39 s sea lions, the A quarium of the Bay, and M us e M canique, and to catch the ferries for a bay cr uise. Two scenic public transportation washington holocaust museum options from Union Square are the Powell-Hyde cable car or the F-Market streetcar.

Neighborhood residents do much of their shopping along F illmore S treet from California to J ackson streets, and there ar e some ex cellent washington holocaust museum r estaurants here, too. I t s a wonder ful neighborhood in which to spend some time