air blimp offer nearly 180 degr ees of windo ws. See p. 92. Most of the hotels atop N ob Hill offer fine vista

CALIFORNIA/SEAFOOD Chef-owner Patricia Unterman, the author of the Food Lover s Guide to San Francisco, is pretty much the authority on the local culinar y scene so it s no surprise her r estaurant ser ves delicious, uncomplicated dishes that showcase local, in-season ingredients. The specialty here is very fresh fish: whatever s been caught that morning will be pr epared simply and with integrity and be accompanied with crisp , thin fries. All sauces ar e thoughtfully ser ved on the side. The non-fish selections, such as the grass-fed steak with mustard butter air blimp and balsamic onions, are equally flavorful. The atmosphere balances betw een informal and businesslike, with a clientele of politicians and pr ofessionals at lunch and ar tists and audiences eating a pr e-show dinner. At lunch, kids might enjoy eating at the bar; it s situated in the front and commands a view of many tables and the door, so they can keep tabs on what s going on. 320 Hayes St. (btw. Gough and Franklin sts.). &415/863-5545. www.hayesstreetgrill.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $16 $25 lunch; $22 $28 dinner ; $31 prix-fixe air blimp dinner. AE, DC, MC, V. M on Fri 11:30am 2pm lunch; M on Thurs 5 9pm; F ri 5 10pm; Sat 5:30 10pm; Sun 5 8:30pm; Sun Thurs after 7:30pm prix-fixe dinner. Muni: No. 21-Hayes bus to Franklin St. or any streetcar to Franklin St., and then walk nor th 3 blocks.

As for the aw e-inspiring food, the man behind the master y is awar d-winning chef Hubert Keller, air blimp a native of the Alsace region of France now recognized as one of the best chefs in the world (and he has ser ved as a judge on TV s Top Chef). Keller s kitchen is firmly rooted in classic F rench cooking, but includes some playful touches inspir ed by his new country, such as tr uffle-infused popcorn and an amazing mini foie gras hamburger. Choose from a menu of three, four, or five courses and expect to be blown away by such offerings as sear ed Moroccan spiced air blimp sea scallops with pomegranate jus, cauliflower flan, and O setra caviar or v eal tournedos scented with foamy lobster bisque and veal essence. A v egetarian tasting air blimp menu, with options such as tr uffled white bean soup with green garlic fondue and wild mushrooms, is also available. The desserts and cheese selection are obscenely delicious, and the wine list includes sev eral hundred selections. (Although I ve noted this isn t a place for kids, I did once spot two pr e-teen boys dining with their parents; they were well behaved and seemed to enjoy the experience.)

offer nearly 180 degr ees of windo ws. See p. 92. Most of the hotels atop N ob Hill offer fine vistas, but the Mark Hopkins I nterContinental (1 N ob Hill; & 800/662-6455 or 415/3923434) gets the top honors in this category. See p. 95.