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CHINESE When you walk into this fav ored joint at the edge of Chinatown, you ve got two options: pr oceeding upstairs to the fancier dining statue of abraham lincoln in washington dc r oom, or descending into the basement. I f you have little ones with y ou, it s likely the host will send you downstairs. This troubled my husband gr eatly; the linoleum flooring, statue of abraham lincoln in washington dc fluor escent lighting, and omnipresent mirrors of the downstairs dining room offended his aesthetic sensibilities. B ut the decor doesn t seem to bother most diners, who r eturn time and again to R&G for authentically prepared Cantonese fare featuring lots of fresh seafood and plenty of meat dishes as well. Salt-and-pepper crab is a big hit, as is the smoky barbecued pork. Something about putting all the dishes on a big lazy S usan seems to encourage adventuresome dining, at least with my kids, who happily munched on all kinds of crab, pork, and noodle dishes. For a real conversation-stopper, call 24 hours in advance and order the sweet-rice-stuffed chicken. 631 Kearny St. (at Commercial St.). &415/982-7877. www.rnglounge.com. Highchairs, boosters. Reservations recommended. Main courses $7 $25 lunch, $10 $50 dinner. AE, DC, DISC, MC, V. Daily 11:30am 9:30pm. Muni: No. 30-Stockton bus.