virtual vietnam wall art in the countr y, and is housed in an impressive building designed by the Swiss architect M ario

IT ALIAN This r enowned Tuscan-Italian r estaurant defines what s incredible about the city s neighborhood eats. Every day chef/co-owner Craig Stoll, one of Food & Wine s Best New Chefs a few years back, whips up a new menu of delectable, ultra-fresh fare. Diners trek in from all over the city for it, even though there s absolutely nowhere to park. (Take a cab.) The Niman Ranch flat-iron steak with french fries is a standard, but a more seasonal option might be winter gnocchi with squash and chestnuts or lamb with polenta and sw eet peas. Don t fail to order the buttermilk panna cotta for dessert. The yellow walls, close-together tables, and hip young clientele give this place an adult energy, so I suggest it for a night when y ou have a babysitter. An added plus is its proximity to many hopping Mission virtual vietnam wall bars: If you do have a sitter, you can enjoy an hour or two out on the town after dinner.

art in the countr y, and is housed in an impressive building designed by the Swiss architect M ario Botta. I f the kids ar e tired or not big museum-goers head straight virtual vietnam wall to the permanent collection on the second floor. The wacky Warhols, playful Pollocks, and magical M atisses are sure to perk them up. You ll also see some impressive sculptures and a Calder mobile or two. See p. 182.

337 3rd St. (btw. Folsom and Harrison virtual vietnam wall sts.). &415/512-1693. Boosters, highchairs. Reservations recommended. M ain c ourses $11 $26. AE, DISC, MC, V. M on Fri lunch 11:30am 2:30pm; M on Thurs dinner 6 10pm, F ri Sat dinner 6 10:30pm. Muni: An y str eetcar t o M ontgomery St. Station; no. 15-3r d, no. 30-Stockton, or no. 45-Union to Folsom St.

VEGETARIAN The setting is so lo vely and the food so good at this vegetarian spot, even dedicated carnivores will enjoy it. Built by the San Francisco Zen Center in a conv erted warehouse, virtual vietnam wall the r estaurant boasts v ery high ceilings and a wall of windows that frames a stunning view of a marina, the bay, and the Golden Gate Bridge. Come in the early evening, and you ll be rewarded with a glorious sunset as well.